How to Hike Peru’s Inca Trail to Machu Picchu in 2024

“Something lost behind the Ranges. Lost and waiting for you. Go!” That’s Rudyard Kipling talking about exploration in general, but for me, it’s a specific command to explore Peru’s Sacred Valley and its crown jewel, the lost city of Machu Picchu. I’ve hiked Peru’s Inca Trail region seven times and can’t wait to do it … Read more

How to Hike the ‘O’ Circuit in Torres del Paine, Patagonia

Mountain range and lake on the 'O' Circuit in Torres del Paine, Patagonia

I’d heard rave reviews about the stunning beauty of Torres del Paine’s ‘O’ Circuit, but I wasn’t prepared for it to take me to a transcendent new world. Towering granite spires, sprawling glaciers, breathtaking mountain passes, intense and ever-changing weather — I experienced it all on every step of my six-day journey. Trekking Patagonia’s ‘O’ … Read more

Backpacking the Atacama to the Ghost Town of San Bartolo

Red, jagged desert hills with white salt deposits and Incan ruins at the base

Sunblock and sweat run into my eyes as I trudge through a harsh, unearthly landscape. Ahead, the trail is fading away and a blast furnace sun beats down. A whisper of self-doubt reminds me that I’m completely alone in the middle of the driest desert in the world. I take a slow, deep breath and … Read more

How to Hike Patagonia’s Huemul Circuit (Without a Guide)

Two hikers look out over the South Patagonian Ice Fields on the Huemul Circuit

Profound Patagonian winds tear into my tent as I begin to realize that sleep is a fleeting possibility. Rest, however, is of little concern. Because I will soon be watching the sunrise over a pastel-blue bay of untainted water. The mountains at my back will burn orange as calving glaciers crack softly in the distance. … Read more