How to Hike the ‘O’ Circuit in Torres del Paine, Patagonia

Mountain range and lake on the 'O' Circuit in Torres del Paine, Patagonia

I’d heard rave reviews about the stunning beauty of Torres del Paine’s ‘O’ Circuit, but I wasn’t prepared for it to take me to a transcendent new world. Towering granite spires, sprawling glaciers, breathtaking mountain passes, intense and ever-changing weather — I experienced it all on every step of my six-day journey. Trekking Patagonia’s ‘O’ … Read more

Backpacking the Atacama to the Ghost Town of San Bartolo

Red, jagged desert hills with white salt deposits and Incan ruins at the base

Sunblock and sweat run into my eyes as I trudge through a harsh, unearthly landscape. Ahead, the trail is fading away and a blast furnace sun beats down. A whisper of self-doubt reminds me that I’m completely alone in the middle of the driest desert in the world. I take a slow, deep breath and … Read more